Get a Taste of East Rock, New Haven

By CHRISTOPHER BYRNE

For Chef Emily Mingrone, cooking was a calling. She grew up in Hamden with a chef for a father, and she started young. She opened and operated her first business, a deli with catering, while she was still in high school.

She always knew, however, that she wanted to open her own restaurant, and after attending culinary school, worked in many famous Connecticut establishments, and even learned to become a butcher at Fleishers.

Finally, in 2019, she teamed up with Shane McGowan and opened Tavern on State in the East Rock section of New Haven in the summer of 2019—earning the “Newcomer of the Year” award from the Connecticut Restaurant Association.

An auspicious beginning, but then a pandemic hit. Undeterred, Mingrone pivoted, providing takeout meals and creating with Zach Pierce, Provisions on State, a boutique grocer and butchers.

As if that wasn’t ambitions enough, Mingrone also opened the Fair Haven Oyster Company on Front Street in New Haven in 2022. All three are thriving now that the pandemic has receded.

Mingrone credits her success to being a “pivoter” and “adapter extraordinarie.” “My whole career is a trauma response and always being on my toes. We do what we need to do, and provide service to the community.”

Community matters very much to Mingrone, especially New Haven, which she loves because it’s diverse with people from all walks for life, “gritty and artistic.” As a member of the LGBTQ+ community, Mingrone values inclusivity and creating a space where everyone is welcome. When people visit one of her establishments, Mingrone wants them to feel like they’re part of a community as a whole,  while having a safe space. She adds that most of her staff identifies as belonging to some part of the LGBTQ+ community. “I’ve had trans employees approach me saying they never had a safe space to work before, and I’m very proud of that.”

And then there’s the food.

Mingrone says that Tavern on State is closest to New American, which, she adds, “undersells it quite a bit. I say it’s responsibly sourced seasonal cuisine with a tavern twist…whatever that may mean.

“There’s a lot of New England influence. It’s eclectic, and it’s led by flavor. I’m very talented with flavors. I’ll start with an ingredient I want to use, and I can think about it for days on end before I work it all in.”

Mingrone says it’s hard to explain. Well, that may be true for the process, but the results are something special. The restaurants are full at almost every seating, and they provide a sexy, warm, welcoming space where people can just enjoy and feel at ease.

While nothing will beat going to one of these amazing spots for a great meal, Emily shared two of her favorite recipes with CT Voice.

Pork Milanese
Recipe Courtesy of Emily Mingrone

Adjust quantities based on number of servings, assume about 8 ounces of pork loin per serving.

Ingredients: (Pork) 

•  Pork loin
•  Egg
•  AP flour
•  Panko
•  Garlic powder
•  Cayenne
•  Salt
•  Pepper
•  Olive oil (if pan frying)

To Prepare

1. Slice pork
2. Pound thin with mallet
3. Season flour with garlic powder/cayenne/s&p
4. Bread using standard procedure: flour/egg/panko
5. Fry in olive oil on stovetop or in fryer depending on availability/preference

Ingredients: (Salad) 

• ●  Red watercress
• ●  Pickled shallots
• ●  Semi dried tomatoes
• ●  Shaved fennel
• ●  Pecorino pepato
• ●  Shallot vinegar
• ●  Evoo
• ●  S&P

Method: 

1. Place all ingredients in bowl and dress with shallot vinegar, evoo, s+p
2. Place on top of pork cutlet
3. Generously grate pecorino over salad with a microplane

Ingredients: (Sauce Ravigote) 

• ●  Eggs
• ●  Blended oil
• ●  Dijon
• ●  Capers
• ●  Shallot
• ●  Garlic
• ●  Tarragon
• ●  Carrot
• ●  Lemon juice
• ●  S+P

Method: 

1. Brunoise carrots (dice into small cubes 1/8-inch or smaller) & set aside .
2. Place egg yolks in food processor with a tablespoon of Dijon Mustard.
3. Drizzle in blended oil
4. Add capers/shallot/tarragon/lemon/salt/pepper/diced carrot
5. Check for seasoning to taste.

Special Appliances/Tools: 

Meat tenderizer/mallet
Fryer (fryer oil)
Microplane
Food processor/robot coupe

Cold lobster roll with creme fraiche, smoked trout roe & dill

Recipe Courtesy of Emily Mingrone

Ingredients: (Lobster) 

• ●  2 each 1 1⁄2 # lobsters
• ●  Lemon
• ●  Bay leaf
• ●  Salt

Method: 

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil with 2 lemons halved and 3 bay leaves
2. Drop lobsters in water for 9-12 minutes until done
3. Cool in ice bath
4. Remove claws and tail and pick meat

Ingredients: (Creme Fraiche Dressing ) 

All quantities to taste.

• ●  Creme fraiche
• ●  Buttermilk
• ●  Dill
• ●  Lemon juice
• ●  Lemon zest
• ●  Salt

Method: 

1. Place creme fraiche in a bowl
2. Thin out with lemon juice/buttermilk
3. Add chopped dill & lemon zest
4. Season

Ingredients: (Split Top Brioche Bun) 

• Bun
• Butter

Method: 

1. Melt butter in a pan
2. Add bun and toast until crispy & golden on both sides

Ingredients: (Smoked Trout Roe) 

• Purchased product

Special Appliances/Tools:
Stock pot large enough for 2 lobsters Fryer if potato wedges are desired